I work on a golf course in VA and myself and the rest of the maintenance crew have to devote 95% of our time to the turf. We have some ornamental beds of various perennials, shrubs, and trees as well, but they are second to the grass and tend to get neglected somewhat.

Last year I noticed that there was a Japanese Maple hiding in one of the beds and it is beautiful! Since then I have taken a lot of time to read about Japanese Maples and bonsai, and I believe the tree is the 'Coral Tower' variety. (aka Sango Kaku, coral bark).

I would like to propagate this tree somehow, and I was told that taking cuttings from this year's growth would be the best method this time of year. Unfortunately, every book has left some questions unanswered. I hope you can help!

I know to use cuttings from 3 to 6 inches, make the bottom cut a diagonal that goes through a node, but what then? How many leaves do I leave on? All? Half? Only the newest 2? Also, I was told to simply "dip it in rooting powder and stick it in some soil". Well, I understand the rooting powder part but what types of soils will work best for getting these cuttings to root? And where can I find these different components? (BTW, I did read your Q of the Month on soils). I have access to straight, sterilized sand; clay soil; old rotted leaves; some very finely chopped wood chips from various trees, about the size of sawdust; and there are plenty of nurseries in town for other media. Also, can these cuttings root in water? And what if I added a drop or two of liquid fertilizer? Would that help or should fertilization wait until next season?

Whew, that's a lot. I didn't realize what a big world I was getting into! But I hope that you or someone you know can answer these technical questions so I can get on my way to having my own piece of the coral tower!

Thank-you

Steve K.

In regards to your question about propagating Japanese maples :

Take first year growth that has hardened ( one to two months after leafing out). Cut just below a leaf node. Cut to two leaf pairs, and immediately insert into water. Prepare moist soil in pot. I use 1 pot per cutting since I get ~80% yield and this saves me from later transplanting. Use a stick to make a hole about 75% deep in the soil in the pot. (not to the bottom, leave room for roots!) Dip the wet cutting in the hormone powder and tap off excess. Place the cutting in the hole and firm the soil around it. {The soil should be course potting soil: with 1/8" sand or equivalent - nothing special.} Place two support sticks in the pot at opposite side of the pot. Place in a zip lock bag, spray with mist and seal off.

Place the bag in a mostly shady spot. Under a tree with a little filtered light is perfect. Inspect this bag once per week for rot. Remove any rot. If the cutting looses all of its leaves throw it out: it probably will not take.

In about 3 months open the zip lock bag 1-2" per week for the next 4 weeks. Leave the pot in the bag with a fully opened bag for at least a week. Water the cutting at least every other day while the bag is open, but do not let the water stand more than a 1/4" or so. Once the cutting is out of the bag water carefully and keep in the shade for the summer.

In spring, protect cuttings from snails. Unlike mature trees, one timely snail will snuff out your cutting, and all your hard work. Leave the cutting in the original pot for a year to develop strength. Fertilize with a gentle, balanced fertilizer like Osmocote.

Hope this has been of help - if you don't want to try the zip-bag method, adequate heating in a greenhouse is enough.

Also check out Japanese Maple: BonsaiSite.com.

Regards,

Dan