Hello I am new to the hobby, but for the last few days been thinking of different trees I would like to try and make into bonsai, My wifes mom has a pretty mimosa tree in the back yard it blooms every year I got to thinking and would like to know has anyone tried or heard of using a mimosa,,you think it might be worth a shot the seeds are in the ground now just waiting to see if they grow, i would also like to try white oak, hickory, and black walnut

I have mimosa grown from seed as bonsai about 6 years now, they have very strong apical growth and will need constant attention to keep pinched back.... the leaves reduce well and they will hold a wired shape, the bark scars easily if the wire is left on too long....otherwise, have fun.

Here is a quick google image search of what others have done. Often this can give you a good idea of whether your tree has been used for bonsai, and what styles it tends to look good in.

Here :-D

If you click the corresponding "web" tab up top you will get some good websites to tell you hot to take care of your mimosa bonsai. Looks like it will work nicely.

Have fun!

here's a pic of one the mimosa I have growing, I pruned it back yesterday, we still have about 12 weeks to the growing season here in Florida....

I think I am starting to grasp this, so Bonsai it pretty much taking a full size tree, for example use a Sequoia that could get up to 300 feet or more, reducing this tree down to a size you would like, then when the tree is at the size you want prune the roots and place in a small bonsai pot to slow the growth of the tree and keep it small it that right or am i off the trail.... I have a question after the tree is in the bonsai pot will it grow at all or no,,,and is this the time to reduce the leaf size when it is in the bonsai pot,,,,well have to run for now have to get some homework done,,,,

mudman, for got to ask you if you could tell me what i might use to mix a good soil, I was told not to use regular potting soil, I need something that will drain fast and not hold alot of water

you are fairly close to the idea of bonsai.... after the initial trunk chop as in the sequoia suggestion, the tree would need some time to recover after the ordeal, so it would be placed in an oversize growing container for a season or two after which further root pruning , branch pruning and wiring would follow to prepare it for a smaller bonsai container.

As the plant is potted in the little container the leaves will naturally reduce to somewhat smaller in size, withholding water and leaf pruning will reduce them even further, yes it will continue to grow.... but much slower than in the wild.... as its metabolism adjusts to the pot.

The mimosa I posted was grown from seed in a larger container for about 4 years, after which it was trunk chopped and branch/root pruned for its present bonsai pot about a year ago.

As for the soil.... I presently use two types depending on the usage.... for immature growing pre-bonsai I use a premium potting soil ( "Jungle Growth" ) 'WELL SIFTED' to remove the finer particles that could clog the soil.... and coarse sand added to aid in drainage ....the percentages are roughly....

For immature pre-bonsai:

For juniper and pine about 60% sand, 25% sifted potting soil, 15% perlite or dri-zit to reduce compaction.

All others including ficus, Elm, Fukien T, oak, bouganvillea, mimosa, seagrape, citrus, crepemyrtle, cycad, chinese silk floss, jerusalem thorn tree, illex vomitoria, brazilian rain tree, buttonwood and everything and anything else I have growing I use 40% sifted premium potting soil, 40% coarse sand and 20% perlite or dri-zit to prevent compaction.

For mature Bonsai :

I prefer to use Turface and about 20% of the sifted potting soil with a good handful of coarse sand added to the gallon.... that is my personal preference, it works well for me in my growing zone which is 10.... others I am sure have their own personal preferences as well.

Hello again mudman, so i will need to pretty much mix a soil that has very little potting soil or some other kind of soil, coarse sand to allow faster water drainage, and turface but I don't know what that is what is turface,,,,you would want a soil that will hold very little water so you dont water log and kill the tree, yes? how much water should my soil hold, and trunk chop looking at pics of sequoia's and your mimosa trunk chop is just that ,,,cutting the top half off the tree and letting new leaves sprout is that correct and why would you need to chop the trunk,,, Thanks

the idea is to control the amount of moisture your plants need, that is where quick drainage comes in.... better to have to water once a day than have soil holding water for a week.

"Well sifted" potting soil can actually be beneficial as the organic elements break down in the medium.... pre bonsai plants need the natural organic matter to help utilize excess nutrients in the roots.

Turface is a fired hard calcined clay that absorbs extra moisture , aids in quick drainage and helps prevent soil compaction in your bonsai pot.... some prefer to use it straight without any added ingredients ....it can be used over and over indefinitely should one desire to do so.... it is the material that is used by sports complexes to absorb rain water from the playing field during a game.... it is sold by the 50 lb bag for about $10.00.

My local bonsai nursery carries the product as does the national landscape supplier "Lesco", I dont know who would have it in your region but you might call around to your local landscape companies and see if they have it or can get some.

The purpose of the 'trunk chop' is to reduce the size of your tree and give it some proportional scale in relation to a chosen bonsai pot.... not many people could get a 20 foot tree in their home to look nice.... but reduce it to 2 feet and you have something.

Hello,

Just saw the post on Mimosa and i had to come in with a word, so WORD.


I got myself a Sensitive Mimosa pland just recently, i loves the way it reacts to its suroundings...

I'm continuing my search for odd plants, the money tree is neet and the mimosa is realy odd, now i think i'm going to need a textured plant. Any ideas???

Jason

"Fukien T" has a good texture as the leaves have a leathery look and feel.... there are two types to consider.... the large leaf which everybody about sells.... they develop the thickest trunks fast.... and the small leaf, which I have only seen at Dura Stone bonsai in Vero Bch.... the leaves truly are smaller and the trunks tall and thin but with good taper and branch placement.... perhaps my next acquired bonsai stock.

The Jasmine orange.. Murryana Panniculata.... sold by Home Depot as Lakeview jasmine.... look through the plants for the best trunks as most are thin and wiry.... but occasionally you can find a good one.

The Burford Holly has a lot of texture.... sharp points on the edges of the leaves....

Any pine with short leaves growing naturally in your area....collect these when they are dormant in mid winter, pot em' up and they should be ok in the spring.